Squamish 2006: Part 5
8-18-06
Randy jumping to the top of Lounge Act
We warmed up at the Animal Magnetism area and as what usually happens, our climbing evolved (devolved?) into some goofing around. Randy was looking at doing a jump to the finish holds of Lounge Act, which isn't that far, but the landing is like a funnel. There is basically no way to miss holds and land without something bad happening. Tim was the first to stick the jump. He totally committed (the smart way) and made it look easy. After many aborted attempts, I sent as well. Randy jumped but did not totally commit, as you can see - only one hand is reaching for the top. He sent as well, after a audible gasp from the crowd.
Lyn on Black Slabbath [v7]
Black Slabbath might be the coolest problem in Squamish. It is a striking, tall (~20') face that is perfectly flat, except for a few tiny "holds" scattered around. Lyn and I had tried it on previous trips and it had left a lasting impression on us. We both wanted to do it but it was hard to get over there early enough in the day when our skin was still intact. Since the end of the trip was looming, we made a point of heading over early when temps were good and our skin was fresh. Courtney came along (she was resting) to lend a crash pad and encouragement. To my astonishment, I did it on my first try, but not without a whimper at the top. Lyn had to work it a bit longer but once we found a key foot, she sent as well. We were both really happy to send one of those "my life is now complete" problems.
Will on Trad Killer [v4]
We met up with the crew at the classic boulder problem, Trad Killer. Apparently, it's called Trad Killer because the starting hold mysteriously appeared and then just a mysteriously disappeared. Anyway, it's a cool problem and Will ticked the thing after take a few tries to sort out his beta. The most amazing thing is that he could still climb after the fall he took on Sloppy Poppy. He popped a few Advil and climbed through the pain. One tough dude.
Later I went over to spot Randy who wanted to try No Troublems Direct, v11. The direct finish heads straight out a cool prow that has a scary pit just down and right of the landing. When Randy first showed me the holds (and the proximity to the pit) I felt my stomach knot because it was so scary. Randy sent quickly using after he altered his heel hook sequence. A French-Canadian guy showed up and showed me some beta that would work better for me. I started to try the moves and the beta worked for the finish. In previous years a I had never been able to do the "Loh" start to No Troublems but that is where the direct starts. Again, much to my surprise, I did the Loh start first try and kept climbing to see what would happen. I stuck the crux dyno after a yelp and held it together to finish the thing. It feels like Christmas when you surprise yourself by doing a problem.
8-19-06
Randy on The Proposal [v12]
The goal for the day was to head up to Ride the Lightning on Tim & Will's last day. While they were down at the Apron, taking care of some business on some soon-to-be blown up boulders, we warmed up at the Animal Magnetism boulder. Randy had been making good progress on The Proposal, v12 and even though the temps weren't the best he got sucked into trying the problem. He got a high-point despite the heat but decided to save himself (and his biceps) for a cooler day.
Courtney on Ride the Lightning [v8]
Once Tim & Will showed up we headed up to Ride the Lightning,v8. This climbed is dubbed the Midnight Lightning of Squamish. Don't get me started on the whole Midnight Lightning comparison fiasco. It seems like every area has to have their version of Midnight Lightning so they find some highball with a scary mantle and bad landing and call it the Midnight Lightning of "anywhere crag". Just leave Midnight Lightning out of it thank you. OK, I'm off my soap box.
The crew assaulted the climbing and started working out the beta. Tim got the ascent for the team. I didn't even try it because it was just too scary. Lyn & Courtney made some good progress figuring out the reachy crux moves but by the time they had figured them out, they had worn themselves out. But now they have beta for next time.
Tim Medina on Mantra [v8]
To finish off the day and Tim's trip, I put him on the Mantra, v8. Definitely one of the classic v8's of Squamish, this problem is all slopers and squeezing with a hard dead-point in the middle. A good way to finish off the trip.
8-20-06
The last day! I had previously worked out the move on the Serpent, v10 and wanted to go back when my skin felt better. Lyn and I warmed up at the Magic Carpet Ride boulder and once Randy, Courtney & Dave Anderman (a childhood friend of Randy from New Mexico) we padded out the landing. My skin was feeling great and I sent first try. What a difference your skin makes. (and a few rest days!)
Lyn on The Fuzz [v7]
Afterwards we went over to The Fuzz to climb and have lunch. The Fuzz is all by itself and next to a river. A good place to have lunch and avoid the heat. The first move is problematic for shorter people but a tricky toe hook unlocked the sequence. Both Lyn & Courtney sent. Lyn was very psyched to do a problem that she had once deemed too reachy.
Cam doesn't seem too affected by the dog-pile
For some reason we had a spontaneous dog-pile. Cam wasn't fazed at all. Maybe we need more dogs.
Raza launching off the big rope swing, Brohm Lake
When we first walked up to the BIG rope swing, we saw another one of those crazy, drunk Canadians going off the swing. He held onto the rope for several moments too long and almost landed back onto the rocks. Fortunately, he managed to hit the water and did not need to be medi-vaced out of there. His performance did not inspire confidence. After watching a number of more graceful swings (including Daniel) I managed to build the courage to do it myself.
It was so fun that I did it again, getting more air the second time (pic above). After that we packed up at the house, said our goodbyes and headed home. A great way to end the trip.
Randy jumping to the top of Lounge Act
We warmed up at the Animal Magnetism area and as what usually happens, our climbing evolved (devolved?) into some goofing around. Randy was looking at doing a jump to the finish holds of Lounge Act, which isn't that far, but the landing is like a funnel. There is basically no way to miss holds and land without something bad happening. Tim was the first to stick the jump. He totally committed (the smart way) and made it look easy. After many aborted attempts, I sent as well. Randy jumped but did not totally commit, as you can see - only one hand is reaching for the top. He sent as well, after a audible gasp from the crowd.
Lyn on Black Slabbath [v7]
Black Slabbath might be the coolest problem in Squamish. It is a striking, tall (~20') face that is perfectly flat, except for a few tiny "holds" scattered around. Lyn and I had tried it on previous trips and it had left a lasting impression on us. We both wanted to do it but it was hard to get over there early enough in the day when our skin was still intact. Since the end of the trip was looming, we made a point of heading over early when temps were good and our skin was fresh. Courtney came along (she was resting) to lend a crash pad and encouragement. To my astonishment, I did it on my first try, but not without a whimper at the top. Lyn had to work it a bit longer but once we found a key foot, she sent as well. We were both really happy to send one of those "my life is now complete" problems.
Will on Trad Killer [v4]
We met up with the crew at the classic boulder problem, Trad Killer. Apparently, it's called Trad Killer because the starting hold mysteriously appeared and then just a mysteriously disappeared. Anyway, it's a cool problem and Will ticked the thing after take a few tries to sort out his beta. The most amazing thing is that he could still climb after the fall he took on Sloppy Poppy. He popped a few Advil and climbed through the pain. One tough dude.
Later I went over to spot Randy who wanted to try No Troublems Direct, v11. The direct finish heads straight out a cool prow that has a scary pit just down and right of the landing. When Randy first showed me the holds (and the proximity to the pit) I felt my stomach knot because it was so scary. Randy sent quickly using after he altered his heel hook sequence. A French-Canadian guy showed up and showed me some beta that would work better for me. I started to try the moves and the beta worked for the finish. In previous years a I had never been able to do the "Loh" start to No Troublems but that is where the direct starts. Again, much to my surprise, I did the Loh start first try and kept climbing to see what would happen. I stuck the crux dyno after a yelp and held it together to finish the thing. It feels like Christmas when you surprise yourself by doing a problem.
8-19-06
Randy on The Proposal [v12]
The goal for the day was to head up to Ride the Lightning on Tim & Will's last day. While they were down at the Apron, taking care of some business on some soon-to-be blown up boulders, we warmed up at the Animal Magnetism boulder. Randy had been making good progress on The Proposal, v12 and even though the temps weren't the best he got sucked into trying the problem. He got a high-point despite the heat but decided to save himself (and his biceps) for a cooler day.
Courtney on Ride the Lightning [v8]
Once Tim & Will showed up we headed up to Ride the Lightning,v8. This climbed is dubbed the Midnight Lightning of Squamish. Don't get me started on the whole Midnight Lightning comparison fiasco. It seems like every area has to have their version of Midnight Lightning so they find some highball with a scary mantle and bad landing and call it the Midnight Lightning of "anywhere crag". Just leave Midnight Lightning out of it thank you. OK, I'm off my soap box.
The crew assaulted the climbing and started working out the beta. Tim got the ascent for the team. I didn't even try it because it was just too scary. Lyn & Courtney made some good progress figuring out the reachy crux moves but by the time they had figured them out, they had worn themselves out. But now they have beta for next time.
Tim Medina on Mantra [v8]
To finish off the day and Tim's trip, I put him on the Mantra, v8. Definitely one of the classic v8's of Squamish, this problem is all slopers and squeezing with a hard dead-point in the middle. A good way to finish off the trip.
8-20-06
The last day! I had previously worked out the move on the Serpent, v10 and wanted to go back when my skin felt better. Lyn and I warmed up at the Magic Carpet Ride boulder and once Randy, Courtney & Dave Anderman (a childhood friend of Randy from New Mexico) we padded out the landing. My skin was feeling great and I sent first try. What a difference your skin makes. (and a few rest days!)
Lyn on The Fuzz [v7]
Afterwards we went over to The Fuzz to climb and have lunch. The Fuzz is all by itself and next to a river. A good place to have lunch and avoid the heat. The first move is problematic for shorter people but a tricky toe hook unlocked the sequence. Both Lyn & Courtney sent. Lyn was very psyched to do a problem that she had once deemed too reachy.
Cam doesn't seem too affected by the dog-pile
For some reason we had a spontaneous dog-pile. Cam wasn't fazed at all. Maybe we need more dogs.
Raza launching off the big rope swing, Brohm Lake
When we first walked up to the BIG rope swing, we saw another one of those crazy, drunk Canadians going off the swing. He held onto the rope for several moments too long and almost landed back onto the rocks. Fortunately, he managed to hit the water and did not need to be medi-vaced out of there. His performance did not inspire confidence. After watching a number of more graceful swings (including Daniel) I managed to build the courage to do it myself.
It was so fun that I did it again, getting more air the second time (pic above). After that we packed up at the house, said our goodbyes and headed home. A great way to end the trip.
posted by Raza at 10:38 AM
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