Monday, August 25, 2008

Squamish 2008: Part III

Thursday August 21st

Courtney Hemphill on This Monkey's Gone to Heaven [v7]

Things were still drying out from the rain, so we started out in the Apron yet again. There was some unfinished business with This Monkey's Gone to Heaven, which was quickly wrapped up by Tim Medina who nailed the crux move first try after being so close on the first day of the trip. The ladies came up with some crazy beta that worked for Courtney, Thomasina and Lyn.

We went down the road to try Jim Carey and while we all worked out good beta for both tall and short people, nobody could put it all together. The temps were better but the key left arete was a little damp...

The apple of Patti's eye, Tim's Sloper Problem, was next on the agenda, but that too, was a tad damp... We went out for Sushi that night with the hope of good wind in the forest.


Friday August 22nd

Lyn Verinsky on Sesame Street [v9]

We had a quick warm up session at the Titanic boulder where Patti used Anne Murray's beta to do the classic Titanic, v3. The good time was dampened by the fact that Courtney had to leave for Portland to meet a friend. You know when people start leaving that the end is near. Maybe sensing this, the ladies came through with some fourth quarter heroics! Patti went down and crushed Tim's Sloper Problem - so fast I couldn't get the camera ready. Lyn sent Sesame Street while having to dry the holds with a towel between attempts because some holds were still dripping. (See topout in video) Last, but not least, Siemay went down to the Superfly boulder and sent Baba Hari Dass, fighting tooth and nail for the top.


Cedar climbs another boulder, get that girl some sticky rubber!

I couldn't resist putting another video of Cedar climbing. She is constantly cruising around and climbing things. In her world, bouldering is just something everybody does - like eating or sleeping.


Thomasina Pidgeon on Anubis [v7]


Ben "The Claw" Eastman on Anubis [v7]

We then stuck the crew on a fun, steep arete called Anubis. Tall folks can climb it with big moves but the shorter folks have to do some crazy matches under the roof. While Ben and Thomasina are in almost the same position above, she had to do about twice the moves to get there and on incredibly small, sharp crimps!


Dave Gurman on Fixing the Car [v8]

Another cool problem, Fixing the Car, starts on a dead horizontal roof and the crux is surmounting the lip. You really do feel like you get out from under a car. It was good to see my old friend Dave Gurman in Squamish, now that he is not completely absorbed in grad school...


Our last night at camp

Saturday August 23rd

Lyn on the classic Young and Furious [v3]

Our last day! We warmed up at the Black Dyke area and it was feeling a bit mungy. We had fun finishing off our warm up on the fun, featured slab Young and Furious.


Cameron absorbed in a book while we climb

Back to Jim Carey with revenge on the mind but Mother Nature had a different idea. Walking out of the forest was like being hit by a sauna. The sun and humidity combined in a way that made you feel like your brain was frying. I crawled and rested in a low spot next to the boulder to try to cool down, but my skin wouldn't stay dry enough, long enough. Thomasina was able to resist the bad conditions and delivered a smooth performance for the only send of the problem.


Lyn Verinsky on El Camino [v7]

After cheering on Patti as she battled one of the hardest v4s in the forest, Timeless, we decided to hop on one last thing before the long drive home. El Camino was a problem nobody had done so we went there for our final hurrah. Lyn and I sent to cap off our trip nicely and Lyn even did all the moves on Fixing the Car, but alas, she was just too tired. We caravaned back to Berkeley, stopping to bivy south of Seattle.

Sunday August 24th

Morning eats & coffee @ Stumptown Coffee in Portland

We meet up with Courtney in Portland for the morning recharge before blasting home. Maybe I'm getting soft, but it was sure nice to have air conditioning when we were heading through the 103ยบ inferno that is known as Redding.

-Raza

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