Squamish 2006: Part 5

8-18-06

Randy jumping to the top of Lounge Act

We warmed up at the Animal Magnetism area and as what usually happens, our climbing evolved (devolved?) into some goofing around. Randy was looking at doing a jump to the finish holds of Lounge Act, which isn't that far, but the landing is like a funnel. There is basically no way to miss holds and land without something bad happening. Tim was the first to stick the jump. He totally committed (the smart way) and made it look easy. After many aborted attempts, I sent as well. Randy jumped but did not totally commit, as you can see - only one hand is reaching for the top. He sent as well, after a audible gasp from the crowd.


Lyn on Black Slabbath [v7]

Black Slabbath might be the coolest problem in Squamish. It is a striking, tall (~20') face that is perfectly flat, except for a few tiny "holds" scattered around. Lyn and I had tried it on previous trips and it had left a lasting impression on us. We both wanted to do it but it was hard to get over there early enough in the day when our skin was still intact. Since the end of the trip was looming, we made a point of heading over early when temps were good and our skin was fresh. Courtney came along (she was resting) to lend a crash pad and encouragement. To my astonishment, I did it on my first try, but not without a whimper at the top. Lyn had to work it a bit longer but once we found a key foot, she sent as well. We were both really happy to send one of those "my life is now complete" problems.


Will on Trad Killer [v4]

We met up with the crew at the classic boulder problem, Trad Killer. Apparently, it's called Trad Killer because the starting hold mysteriously appeared and then just a mysteriously disappeared. Anyway, it's a cool problem and Will ticked the thing after take a few tries to sort out his beta. The most amazing thing is that he could still climb after the fall he took on Sloppy Poppy. He popped a few Advil and climbed through the pain. One tough dude.

Later I went over to spot Randy who wanted to try No Troublems Direct, v11. The direct finish heads straight out a cool prow that has a scary pit just down and right of the landing. When Randy first showed me the holds (and the proximity to the pit) I felt my stomach knot because it was so scary. Randy sent quickly using after he altered his heel hook sequence. A French-Canadian guy showed up and showed me some beta that would work better for me. I started to try the moves and the beta worked for the finish. In previous years a I had never been able to do the "Loh" start to No Troublems but that is where the direct starts. Again, much to my surprise, I did the Loh start first try and kept climbing to see what would happen. I stuck the crux dyno after a yelp and held it together to finish the thing. It feels like Christmas when you surprise yourself by doing a problem.

8-19-06

Randy on The Proposal [v12]

The goal for the day was to head up to Ride the Lightning on Tim & Will's last day. While they were down at the Apron, taking care of some business on some soon-to-be blown up boulders, we warmed up at the Animal Magnetism boulder. Randy had been making good progress on The Proposal, v12 and even though the temps weren't the best he got sucked into trying the problem. He got a high-point despite the heat but decided to save himself (and his biceps) for a cooler day.


Courtney on Ride the Lightning [v8]

Once Tim & Will showed up we headed up to Ride the Lightning,v8. This climbed is dubbed the Midnight Lightning of Squamish. Don't get me started on the whole Midnight Lightning comparison fiasco. It seems like every area has to have their version of Midnight Lightning so they find some highball with a scary mantle and bad landing and call it the Midnight Lightning of "anywhere crag". Just leave Midnight Lightning out of it thank you. OK, I'm off my soap box.

The crew assaulted the climbing and started working out the beta. Tim got the ascent for the team. I didn't even try it because it was just too scary. Lyn & Courtney made some good progress figuring out the reachy crux moves but by the time they had figured them out, they had worn themselves out. But now they have beta for next time.


Tim Medina on Mantra [v8]

To finish off the day and Tim's trip, I put him on the Mantra, v8. Definitely one of the classic v8's of Squamish, this problem is all slopers and squeezing with a hard dead-point in the middle. A good way to finish off the trip.

8-20-06
The last day! I had previously worked out the move on the Serpent, v10 and wanted to go back when my skin felt better. Lyn and I warmed up at the Magic Carpet Ride boulder and once Randy, Courtney & Dave Anderman (a childhood friend of Randy from New Mexico) we padded out the landing. My skin was feeling great and I sent first try. What a difference your skin makes. (and a few rest days!)


Lyn on The Fuzz [v7]

Afterwards we went over to The Fuzz to climb and have lunch. The Fuzz is all by itself and next to a river. A good place to have lunch and avoid the heat. The first move is problematic for shorter people but a tricky toe hook unlocked the sequence. Both Lyn & Courtney sent. Lyn was very psyched to do a problem that she had once deemed too reachy.


Cam doesn't seem too affected by the dog-pile

For some reason we had a spontaneous dog-pile. Cam wasn't fazed at all. Maybe we need more dogs.


Raza launching off the big rope swing, Brohm Lake

When we first walked up to the BIG rope swing, we saw another one of those crazy, drunk Canadians going off the swing. He held onto the rope for several moments too long and almost landed back onto the rocks. Fortunately, he managed to hit the water and did not need to be medi-vaced out of there. His performance did not inspire confidence. After watching a number of more graceful swings (including Daniel) I managed to build the courage to do it myself.

It was so fun that I did it again, getting more air the second time (pic above). After that we packed up at the house, said our goodbyes and headed home. A great way to end the trip.

Squamish 2006: Part 4

8-15-06

Lyn on Worm World Cave [v8] & Raza exiting a worm cave

One of the highlights of the trip was being shown around some of the cool caves underneath a few of the boulder problems on which we were climbing. Tim Doyle, a Squamish local, was kind enough to take us into the deep. The picture of Paul was taken as he was wriggling out of a hole underneath the Worm World Cave - I'm only now realizing that the name of the problem may have something to do with the cavern underneath it. The funny thing is that we have previously sent Cameron down that hole head-first with Paul hanging onto his legs to retrieve items that were accidentally dropped down there. Courtney's brush was the most recent example. Only after Tim showed us the way to get down there via a back entrance did we realize that adults could fit, too, if barely.

Tim took the group on another underground adventure, much to Cameron's delight. Paul, Courtney, Randy, Daniel, Tim, Cam and I went deep under the boulders where it was pitch black and the only way to know where to go was to grab at the person's ankles in front of you. Oh, did I mention that the spaces we were crawling through were often so small that Cameron had a hard time getting through them? Making it out to the light was like being reborn; it was an awesome experience. So great, in fact, that Cameron begged me to take him back through. Without Tim to guide us, we had a little trouble finding our way and Cameron changed his mind about what a great idea it was to crawl around in the dark. We managed to find our way out after a few wrong turns which made emerging into the light an even greater relief. No one else appeared to notice we were missing, which was a little alarming had we really gotten lost down there. Next time, walkie-talkies.

After Paul suggested some alternate beta for the start of Worm World Cave and after watching Courtney crush the problem a few days before, I figured that I might have a chance of doing it. In my typical fashion, I had to try the problem about 79 times and try out 18 beta changes before successfully getting to the top. Thankfully, my climbing friends adhere to the "patience is a virtue" motto in their dealings with me and continue to give good spots on my many attempts - thanks guys!

8-16-06

Lyn on Desire [v0+]

Desire is a 25 foot slab (plus or minus three feet) that sits immediately adjacent to Hwy 99. Vancouver is hosting the winter Olympics in 2010 with all the skiing events taking place in Whistler, a ski resort town about 35 miles north of Squamish. In preparation for the big event, Hwy 99 is being widened to 4-lanes and several large boulders with some excellent boulder problems will be blown to smithereens, including Desire. When Paul saw Desire on our first trip in 2003, he thought that it must be some crazy-hard project due to it's rather massive size. When he checked the guidebook, he was startled to see that it had been climbed and was rated v0+ (mom, v0 is the easiest rating for a boulder problem so this one is not too difficult, at least in theory). So armed with this information, he did what all good bouldering guys do, he sent his girlfriend (me) up it. Now, three years later and after discovering that it was slated to be destroyed, Paul returned, determined to make it up the beautiful and daunting climb before it was too late. Well, he, Randy, Courtney and Daniel all cruised up the climb with no problems since they are all technical wizards and know how to use their feet whilst slab climbing.



Randy Puro on Shots Fired [v4]

Here's a photo of another Squamish "classic" on the Olympic demolition hit list. Our friend, Will, was determined to get up this great climb and in an awesome last day sendfest climbed both Shots Fired and Lounge Act. This was made all the more impressive given that 1, he started his 9-day climbing trip with the stomach flu; 2, half-way through the trip fell from the top of Sloppy Poppy (another Squamish "classic") and bashed his side on some tree roots; and 3, took fewer rest days than even me, which takes some doing. By the end of the trip, he was considered the bionic man.



Courtney on Jim Carrey [v10]/Nick's Traverse [v8]

Here's Courtney on the amazing first moves of Jim Carrey/Nick's Traverse. She styled them, as she does many moves, but the temps and her skin both conspired to keep her from topping out the climb. While Jim Carrey and Nick's Traverse both start with the same 4 technical moves, Nick's Traverse moves out right to better holds. Jim Carrey, however, finishes straight up, through a bad undercling and worse gastons to a very scary and high top-out. We were all very happy that Randy didn't fall at the top. After Paul did Nick's Traverse and had a break for some Game Boy action with Cameron, we all moved over to the Serpent [v10]. While everyone gave it their best, only Randy was able to unlock and do all the moves consecutively and after another heart-in-mouth topout, sent the problem.

8-17-06


Cameron at Brohm Lake

The funny thing about Canada is that there's something in the water that addles your brain. At least I'd like to blame his expression on Canadian water. One thing that is in evidence is a lot of garbage in beautiful locations like Brohm Lake. It's obviously a popular location for copious beer drinking and cigarette smoking, at least that's what I gather from the beer bottles, cans and cigarette butts that litter the banks of the lake. Paul keeps reminding me that Squamish is a little on the rednecky side and I'm sad to report that he's right. For every cool Squamish local I meet, there are a dozen who think a good time out is a case of beer and a fistfight in the cul de sac where our rental is located. Although I haven't seen any cars up on blocks in the front yard, it wouldn't necessarily surprise me if I did. But Squamish has no shortage of natural beauty and it's not called the outdoor recreation capital of Canada for nothing. I just wish they'd get a good sushi restaurant and sell wine at the grocery store.

Today's a rest day, which means no climbing, but lots of time spent on the computer at home playing dice wars, rereading Harry Potter Books, going swimming at the lake, and at least today, eating fish and chips at the Wigam Pier. The fish and chips were fair, the batter being not too greasy but getting a bit soggy after the initial crispness. Cameron managed to finish his plate, including about 2 pounds of chips - he doesn't have that Polish last name for nothing!

-Lyn

Squamish 2006: Part 3

8-11-06

Daniel on ATD [v7]

Back to the forest again. Although I wasn't climbing, it's fun to go out to the boulders and take pictures, watch the climbing and hang out with friends. Daniel and Lyn were on a mission to do the classic ATD, v7 so we warmed up and headed over. The temps were pretty good (see hat above) and both Lyn and Daniel dispatched their project.


Lyn on The Bulb [v8]

Everyone was scurrying around the forest because the temps were so good. I managed to do the Weasel, v8 which in previous years had given me fits. Courtney scampered up Baba Hari Dass, v7 which is a sloping arete that is very friction dependent. Later, the crew headed over to Rat Rock and the crew tried two fun problems: The Bulb, v8 and Sharma's Arete, v8, which Courtney also dispatched with style. It was a great day.

8-12-06

Courtney warming up on the Black Dyke boulder


Will on Viper [v5] and Tim on Sloppy Poppy [v5]

After yesterday's good temps and subsequent long climbing day, my skin went from hero to zero. Everyone else was still psyched to climb. Especially Tim and Will, our friends from the Bay. They have been running around the forest with perpetual grins.




Lyn on Mosquito Incubator [v8]

In the afternoon, Lyn and Courtney started to try Mosquito Incubator, v8 but the grade belies the difficulty. Almost all the holds are facing to the left which makes it hard to hang on. The sequence also varies wildly from person to person since body position is so critical. After a while, Lyn and Courtney had figured out all the moves but since it was the end of the day, both were tired. Lyn and I stuck around after everyone else took off and Lyn's patience and persistence were rewarded with a end of the day send of an old nemesis. It's a great feeling when you can do an entire problem when previously you couldn't do any of the moves. Lyn was very happy.

8-13-06

Carpet roams the forest

You see the strangest things in the forest here. We discovered a walking carpet that apparently roams the forest in search of food. We climbed again (of course) and started out at the Black Mark area to warm up. Courtney and Randy had problems in that area that they wanted to try. We had a fun time wandering around the Black Mark and Titanic areas warming up 'Bandit' style. Meaning that we walked around and used everyone else's pads, which Randy calls 'bandit bouldering'.

Although I was trying to preserve my skin, I couldn't resist getting on Backseat, v10 a problem so fiendishly simple (but frustrating) that it's hard not to try. Out of some miracle, I had a surprise send. Some problems feel like you're in jail; it's not skill or strength that get you out, you just have to do your time.


Tim on Plan Insanity [v5]

At the end of the day Lyn and I cajoled the crew to head over to Plan Insanity, v5. This is one of our favorite problems in the forest and we are always looking for people to hop on it. After an extremely long day of climbing, Tim found the reserves to fire it (and we finally got a chance to shoot photos of it).

8-14-06

Cam, Paul, Lyn & Kona

Although Kona is not technically part of the family, we have given him at least a ceremonial title since he's such a cool dog. On this day, the weather had warmed up a bit and also because we hadn't had a rest day in a while, there was quite of bit of lounging around. The forest is such a beautiful and peaceful place, it's easy to do.

Squamish 2006: Part 2

8-6-06

Cam sending his slab project

It's not just the adults who are getting in on all the climbing fun; Cam also joins in once and a while. There are a few problems that he couldn't do when we were here two years ago and the above climb is an old project that he was able to do this time around. Obviously, he was pretty happy about it.


Lyn on an unknown slab & Courtney on Worm World Cave [v8]

We had plans to eat in Vancouver Saturday night, so in the morning we scurried about to get as much climbing in as we could. While Courtney tried World World Cave, Lyn ran over and tried a cool looking slab with no name. I had to take a picture of the beautiful slab in the verdant forest. Even if there was no climbing in this forest, it would warrant hiking around and taking pictures.


Dinner at Vij's

I've never been accused of being a 'foodie' but I'm glad that many in our group are. They had heard rumors of 'some of the best Indian food around.' The food and the atmosphere were both great. The most amazing thing to me, was that each dish had such a distinctive (and yummy) flavor.


The view of English Bay from Kitsalano Beach

To top the night off we grabbed some gelato and hung out at the beach and a nice sunset unfolded before our eyes. We could do this kind of thing in Berkeley, but only on vacation do we get off our keisters and do it.


Geekin' out

We were tired when we got home but we still had the energy to geek out with our computers. This was not the first time, nor will it be the last. Left to our own devices, this happens a lot.

8-7-06

Randy Puro on Lucky Sharms [v11]

The crew headed out 'early' once again because Ingar and Nora had to drive to the airport. The goal was to get on the classic highball Loose Change because we wanted try it but we also wanted the maximum number of pads. After the sun crept up and Ingar and Nora bid adieu, it got instantly hot. We wandered over to the Thighmaster area to try some more problems. Randy got really close on Lucky Sharms, v11 until I pulled out my camera (also known as the gravity machine because it seems like gravity increases when someone is taking pictures.)

8-8-06

Having a ball playing "quickdraw"

The rains finally came. Our first trip here it only rained 2 day in a whole month. On our next trip it rained 10 out of 14 days, which is also unlikely but you have to expect that in British Columbia. We're doing good so far with one day. We spent most of the day puttering around the house checking emails and playing games. It's amazing how fun a game of Nintendo "quickdraw" can be when it's raining outside and there is nothing else to do.

8-9-06

Daniel Soto on First Nation Givers [v8]

The rain died off and we scurried off the driest part of squamish to get our fix. The apron boulders are the fastest to dry and that's where we went. Only about 15 feet away from where I have warmed up at least a dozen times before hid a cool problem. From afar, it looks like a short insignificant 3 foot boulder, but there is actually a pit that goes down 8 feet and a problem was recently established on it by the industrious Tim Doyle.

Lyn had a hankering to get on Mindbender (a problem she had been trying) so we headed over and to our surprise, it was breezy and dry. The cool temps were just what the doctor ordered and she sent quickly. We later head over to Defenders of the Faith (too swampy) and turned around and went back to Worm World Cave. Courtney sent and I managed to do the low start. Cam also got a tour of the cave system below our feet by Tim Doyle and Cameron later showed the way to the rest of the crew. It was quite funny to watch the adults try to squeeze out of the final hole.

Squamish 2006: Part 1

8-3-06

Daniel Soto driving in the wee hours

Back to Squamish for a two week trip. No TINTIN this time, not with gas prices well over $3 and only going for two weeks. Lyn, Cam, Daniel and I piled into the Jetta with a crapload of stuff and headed up to Canada. Cam and Lyn were crammed in the back with hardly enough space for both to face forward at the same time. It was going to be a long trip. After stopping for dinner in Ashland, we got the crazy idea to just keep driving instead of sleeping in Grants Pass which was our original plan. We had left the Bay Area at 3:45pm and drove out of Ashland at 10pm. After stopping for diesel and fueling up on coffee and chocolate covered coffee beans we drove until we arrived in Squamish at 8am.

8-4-06

Lyn repeating the classic: Viper [v5]


Nora on Sloppy Poppy [v4]

A little woozy from our drive, we spent our first day cruising around the forest with our Berkeley friends Courtney & Randy and Ingar & Nora. We had a great time climbing on fun moderates and simply moving around after our long drive. The forest was as magical as we remembered, albeit a bit crowded with all the other climbers who had the brilliant idea to head to Squamish in August.


Randy Puro on Black Slabbath [v7]

After a while we went over to try one of the best slabs around (also with probably the coolest name for a slab) Black Slabbath. This thing is tall and scary with the crux at the top. While we all tried valiantly, Randy got the send for the team. Perhaps the climb was intimidated by Randy's game face, but it may have been his crazy campus moves that got him to the top. After attempting to climb a bit more, an analysis of people's skin condition brought about the end of the day.

8-5-06

Daniel taking full advantage of the rest day


Rest day geekin'

We took a rest day partly to recover from climbing on Friday but also to recover from the drive. After lounging and checking emails; Cam, Courtney and I went out to the boulders to check in with Lyn - who was climbing with Ingar and Nora. Daniel remained on the couch in a prone condition.

This is the first trip to Squamish where we aren't camping and although we miss the view from the Spit and the otters playing in our "backyard", having showers, a kitchen and a dry place to hang out when it rains is quite nice. We are also enjoying all the orange furniture. The funny thing about being on vacation is that when we aren't climbing, we spend a lot of our time sitting in front of computers looking up stuff on Wikepedia and other random stuff.