Font 2005: Part 1
Lyn and I are now in Fontainebleau, climbing with friends (Ingar, Nora, Ken & Jen). The weather was a bit wet when we got here on Thursday but it has been drying out for a couple of days (before the next rains come).
Controle Technique
03-11-05
After Lyn and I got settled in on the first day, we dashed to Bas Cuvier to get some climbing in. The first two pictures of me are on Controle Technique. The problem is crazy cool and is super funky. I didn't manage to send it but I was able to work out my beta again. Later Lyn tried Holey Moley for a bit but it was still a little too wet. The third picture is of me on Biceps Mou, a problem that has puzzled me for years but with the help of another American, we figured out the beta. Of course, it was too wet to send, or at least my right arm was too tired to send.
Controle Technique again
Biceps Mou
3-12-05
After a little rain on Saturday morning, Lyn and I went for a couple of hours to 95.2 to get a little exercise in the afternoon.
3-13-05
Sunday was much better weather-wise and the whole crew headed over to Buthiers. The fourth photo is of me on this crazy, scary highball called "Le directe du petit Cervin." It is only 5c, but you have to rock over this slopey foot and the fall is ridiculous (onto the lower slab). The last two photos are other problems on the black circuit at Buthiers. All really fun and technical and usually pretty high-ball. Ken and I managed to do "Master Edge", a 7b arete and I did the "Lady big claques", 7a+, one of the best problems I've done in Font.
Crazy highball at Buthiers
5c testpiece at Buthiers!
Another highball @ Buthiers
3-14-05
I had to rest on Monday since my arms felt like they were going to fall off. I went along with everybody to Franchard Cuisiniere to hang out, rest and take some pictures. Picture number seven is everyone hiking up to Cuisiniere. The eigth picture is of Ingar topping out Le Magnifique, a 7a with a crazy slopey top-out. There isn't really any beta other than, go for it!
Hiking to Cuisiniere
Ingar topping out le Magnifique
3-15-05
The crew headed to Petit Bois. Most people were a little sore from many days on, so they contented themselves on doing some easier slabs. Picture number nine is of me on Big Dragon, a dream project of mine. Apparently, one of the two nubs on the crux hold has broken off. That could explain why that move was so hard, but I think it is still possible. Later we went over to Elephant and Lyn did her first 7a, the left start to la Barre Fixe Directe, 7a+.
Barely hanging on Big Dragon
3-16-05
Wednesday turned out to be blazing hot. The high was 19 degrees and all day I just wanted to go to sleep. The last picture is of Nora on just another crazy Font top-out, this one at Bas Cuvier. I tried Controle Technique again but we don't need any more pictures of me falling off it. At the end of the day Lyn and I went over to Bas Cuvier Est and Lyn did Duroxmanie, a 6c+ that bouted Lyn two years ago. Oh, revenge, how sweet it is.
Nora on un-named bulge top-out at Bas Cuvier
Au revoir
-Raza
Controle Technique
03-11-05
After Lyn and I got settled in on the first day, we dashed to Bas Cuvier to get some climbing in. The first two pictures of me are on Controle Technique. The problem is crazy cool and is super funky. I didn't manage to send it but I was able to work out my beta again. Later Lyn tried Holey Moley for a bit but it was still a little too wet. The third picture is of me on Biceps Mou, a problem that has puzzled me for years but with the help of another American, we figured out the beta. Of course, it was too wet to send, or at least my right arm was too tired to send.
Controle Technique again
Biceps Mou
3-12-05
After a little rain on Saturday morning, Lyn and I went for a couple of hours to 95.2 to get a little exercise in the afternoon.
3-13-05
Sunday was much better weather-wise and the whole crew headed over to Buthiers. The fourth photo is of me on this crazy, scary highball called "Le directe du petit Cervin." It is only 5c, but you have to rock over this slopey foot and the fall is ridiculous (onto the lower slab). The last two photos are other problems on the black circuit at Buthiers. All really fun and technical and usually pretty high-ball. Ken and I managed to do "Master Edge", a 7b arete and I did the "Lady big claques", 7a+, one of the best problems I've done in Font.
Crazy highball at Buthiers
5c testpiece at Buthiers!
Another highball @ Buthiers
3-14-05
I had to rest on Monday since my arms felt like they were going to fall off. I went along with everybody to Franchard Cuisiniere to hang out, rest and take some pictures. Picture number seven is everyone hiking up to Cuisiniere. The eigth picture is of Ingar topping out Le Magnifique, a 7a with a crazy slopey top-out. There isn't really any beta other than, go for it!
Hiking to Cuisiniere
Ingar topping out le Magnifique
3-15-05
The crew headed to Petit Bois. Most people were a little sore from many days on, so they contented themselves on doing some easier slabs. Picture number nine is of me on Big Dragon, a dream project of mine. Apparently, one of the two nubs on the crux hold has broken off. That could explain why that move was so hard, but I think it is still possible. Later we went over to Elephant and Lyn did her first 7a, the left start to la Barre Fixe Directe, 7a+.
Barely hanging on Big Dragon
3-16-05
Wednesday turned out to be blazing hot. The high was 19 degrees and all day I just wanted to go to sleep. The last picture is of Nora on just another crazy Font top-out, this one at Bas Cuvier. I tried Controle Technique again but we don't need any more pictures of me falling off it. At the end of the day Lyn and I went over to Bas Cuvier Est and Lyn did Duroxmanie, a 6c+ that bouted Lyn two years ago. Oh, revenge, how sweet it is.
Nora on un-named bulge top-out at Bas Cuvier
Au revoir
-Raza
posted by Raza at 6:24 AM
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