Hueco 2007: reprised
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We'll look back on our Hueco trip with one big posting since our laptop screen went out on our first day of the trip. I went to Walmart a couple of times to burn the pictures from our memory card to CD's - the process was excruciating, I wouldn't recommend it.
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Just another clump of rocks near Hueco Tanks
The first night we spent outside of the park because they lock the gates at 6pm. We thought about camping right outside the gate but Noah told us about someone who got ran into by a drunk driver parked in front of the gate. So we opted to head out into the desert and bivy behind a clump of rocks. When we woke up, we were greeted by a warm sunrise that highlighted this cool mound of rocks. A great way to start the trip. (Paul is omitting the 21 hours of driving, with one stop to sleep a total of two hours, we endured to enjoy this moment.)
Getting climbing our first day was hard because of all the hoops you're forced to jump through to get into the park. The ranger at the gate wouldn't let us in even though we were signed up for a volunteer tour that was leaving at 9:30. Noah came out and explained the situation to the ranger and he reluctantly let us in and after watching the 'orientation' video we head out for a short observation tour to Moonshine roof (really to the Power of Landjager for the boys). Afterwards we headed to North Mountain, where we weren't required to have a guide to show us around.
Davey from Santa Cruz on the New Meadow classic Lobster Claw, v5
For our second day of climbing, we headed back to North Mountain to what's called the 'New Meadow'. When the park restrictions went into effect, people started to take more interest in North Mountain and actually found a whole new area of quality climbs. I guess in one regard the restrictions spurred development.
Anyway, there are some super cool problems in the New Meadow and one of them is Lobster Claw. It's hard to believe that a boulder this cool has only recently been discovered.
Dave Friedman & Raza on West Mountain
Our friend Dave was in Hueco and on his last climbing day we went along with him and a group of his British friends on a tour of West Mountain. After an epic approach into the Dragon's Pen (don't go directly up from ground level), we climbed around a little bit to get warmed up. Dave and I then headed over to 1969. This sloper problem on perfect iron-rock was the last climb that he wanted to get on before heading home. (sorry, no pictures).
Raza on Shroom, v9
Another cool problem nearby was the Shroom, found by a Frenchman who was, of course, on Mushrooms at the time. It's a great example of Heuco climbing with its steep wall and the crazy Hueco crimps that you can't believe are strong enough to not break off.
Tlaloc dude
One of the cooler aspects of Heuco is the Indian rock art that is all around the park. Apparently, Hueco has the largest concentration of painted masks in the world. This dude is Tlaloc, he makes it rain. Generally, we don't want it to rain, but that's because we get water piped in from the city and can buy all of our food at the Vista market. (yum, fresh tortillas)
Lyn on the old school Better Eat Your Wheaties, v8
On yet another of the rapid-fire Observation tours (they are usually only 2 hours long) we went to the East Spur maze where we ran around like crazy people, trying to warm up and climb all the good lines. Lyn and I hopped on Slim Pickins, the classic slab problem of Hueco. There was so much friction compared to the slabs we're used to in the Valley that we both raced up right quick. Better Eat Your Wheaties was a climb that I was scared of for a long time since in had a reputation of being extremely crimpy, so it was fun to be able to do it (with the secret lip beta of Brian from Ohio). Lyn will need to wait for our next trip to get the problem.
Siemay Lee on King Cobra, v6
Another classic problem at the New Meadow is King Cobra. (Couldn't they come up with a more original name?) Siemay had been working it before we arrived, but couldn't figure out a sequence suited for people of more petite stature (also known as dwarfs, gnomes, midgets and little people). Fortunately, Lyn figured out some cool beta and they both sent.
Rich from Ohio on Mandalahaha, v3
In most climbing areas a problem like this would just be a 'throw-away' problem. But this v3 on perfect iron-rock is super fun. Rich (from Ohio as well) managed to do it with a bum leg that he hurt heel hooking (not a good injury to have in Hueco, land of steep climbing). Despite his injury, Rich continued climbing and discovered a hidden talent for crimpy, vertical problems.
Brian Arnold on French Tickler, v9
A cool rock near the Gunks in the East Spur has a bunch of good problems on it, but the plum line is the French Tickler. It heads right up the middle of the wall and the crux move comes right at the end. What you can't see is how absolutely terrifying the landing area looks. Let's just say, you don't want to fall out of control since there is a decent chance of pad surfing.
Raza on Free Willy, v10
You'd think with an incriminating photo like this that I would have sent this try. But no, I still managed to fall off. I had to come back another day to finish this one off. Free Willy climbs a wall with pretty good holds until the last heinous crimp, and then you do a huge dyno off it!
Cool mask on North Mountain
Just another stormy sunset from the Pond Parking Lot
Noah on The Power of Landjager, v11
Finally, we got to take a full day volunteer tour and go to all the places we'd been itching to hit. First stop, Power of Landjager. We hadn't been back since the first day to try this classic problem. It's the low start to Sound of Power, a classic v4 in its own right. Paul was feeling much more acclimated to Hueco climbing at this point and was able to make it to the top of this beautiful line. Thankfully, there were a couple cool climbs for the rest of us in the Moonshine roof area, just up the hill. So while the boys cranked on their problem, Siemay and I did Moonshine roof v4 and Moonshine Right v5 respectively. Those problems have some of the coolest roof holds I've ever had the pleasure to use. Plus, they aren't gimmes for the grade!
Siemay on Something Different, v8
In the deep dark depths of the Dark Heart, lies this fun little problem. It became a favorite among the ladies and we all came within a hair of putting it all together. But again, a ticking tour clock and being just plain tired at the end of the day, conspired to keep anyone but Paul (who flashed it) from sending. Hueco is a great place for folks who get problems done quickly, which works for Paul, but not so much for me.
Raza on Full Service, v10
On our second to last day of climbing, Lyn and I took a commercial tour to hit some of the lingering problems that we wanted to get on. We hired Yuri to take us out, show us around and occasionally give some helpful beta. Full Service was an old nemesis of mine. Years ago I was able to do the crux move and top out Lip Service, but I could never link from the start. It was really nice to be able to come back and slay the dragon. Lyn was also able to hit some of the classics of the area that she'd been hearing about for years. Dragonfly v5, Hobbit in a Blender v5, Osterizer v2, and Hector in a Blender v6 all went down swiftly. Then I surprised myself with a quick send of Crimping Christ on the Cross v10.
Lyn on Ultramega, v8
At the end of our tour with Yuri, we headed over to check out Ultramega. With only 20 minutes left to climb, Lyn hopped on, and while she did all the moves, she didn't have time to send. At least it will give her something to come back for!
Lyn on the classic highball See Spot Run, v6
If there is a climb in Hueco with my name written all over it, it's this one. I'd already heard about See Spot Run from Mike & Rebecca and couldn't wait to get on it after seeing it my first day on North Mountain. Unfortunately, it was an uphill battle to do this problem from the get go. After sorting out all the moves the first day, we were rained out before I was able to put it together. The second and third days of attempting it, left me wanting to tear my hair out in frustration since I kept on messing up the first three-move sequence. By the time I finally got through the opening moves, I was so shot, I couldn't finish the challenging upper crux. I was feeling pretty dejected by my fourth day. But by some minor miracle, aka watching a bunch of strong kids flash my project, I tried really, really hard and made topped out.
A view of the North Mountain meadow
Raza on Martini Right
Ever since seeing Fred on Martini Right in the Masters of Stone 3 video, I've had a secret dream to climb the problem. While it's a little over my head at the moment, the moves are so cool, I had a great time working on it. I almost made it through the crux! Of course, a ridiculously long and pumpy finish is where most people fall. Maybe next year.
Lyn on Melon Patch, v0
It's always good to end the trip on a hight note. That usually means we drag our tired and sore bodies up an easier climb for the last climb on the last day. At the beginning of our last day in Hueco, Lyn managed to pull her right hip flexor and was unable to lift her foot more than 6 inches high. She spent the rest of the day giving good spots and encouragement and getting around by dragging her right leg behind her. We figured that Melon Patch would be the perfect last climb for a gimpy climber given its huge jugs and easy moves. Plus, it's a Hueco classic.
Driving 20+ miles is a lot less fun when you are driving AWAY from a world-class climbing destination. But after six or so fuel stops and an equal number of ice cream sandwiches, we found ourselves back at 1410 Alcatraz.
We'll look back on our Hueco trip with one big posting since our laptop screen went out on our first day of the trip. I went to Walmart a couple of times to burn the pictures from our memory card to CD's - the process was excruciating, I wouldn't recommend it.
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Just another clump of rocks near Hueco Tanks
The first night we spent outside of the park because they lock the gates at 6pm. We thought about camping right outside the gate but Noah told us about someone who got ran into by a drunk driver parked in front of the gate. So we opted to head out into the desert and bivy behind a clump of rocks. When we woke up, we were greeted by a warm sunrise that highlighted this cool mound of rocks. A great way to start the trip. (Paul is omitting the 21 hours of driving, with one stop to sleep a total of two hours, we endured to enjoy this moment.)
Getting climbing our first day was hard because of all the hoops you're forced to jump through to get into the park. The ranger at the gate wouldn't let us in even though we were signed up for a volunteer tour that was leaving at 9:30. Noah came out and explained the situation to the ranger and he reluctantly let us in and after watching the 'orientation' video we head out for a short observation tour to Moonshine roof (really to the Power of Landjager for the boys). Afterwards we headed to North Mountain, where we weren't required to have a guide to show us around.
Davey from Santa Cruz on the New Meadow classic Lobster Claw, v5
For our second day of climbing, we headed back to North Mountain to what's called the 'New Meadow'. When the park restrictions went into effect, people started to take more interest in North Mountain and actually found a whole new area of quality climbs. I guess in one regard the restrictions spurred development.
Anyway, there are some super cool problems in the New Meadow and one of them is Lobster Claw. It's hard to believe that a boulder this cool has only recently been discovered.
Dave Friedman & Raza on West Mountain
Our friend Dave was in Hueco and on his last climbing day we went along with him and a group of his British friends on a tour of West Mountain. After an epic approach into the Dragon's Pen (don't go directly up from ground level), we climbed around a little bit to get warmed up. Dave and I then headed over to 1969. This sloper problem on perfect iron-rock was the last climb that he wanted to get on before heading home. (sorry, no pictures).
Raza on Shroom, v9
Another cool problem nearby was the Shroom, found by a Frenchman who was, of course, on Mushrooms at the time. It's a great example of Heuco climbing with its steep wall and the crazy Hueco crimps that you can't believe are strong enough to not break off.
Tlaloc dude
One of the cooler aspects of Heuco is the Indian rock art that is all around the park. Apparently, Hueco has the largest concentration of painted masks in the world. This dude is Tlaloc, he makes it rain. Generally, we don't want it to rain, but that's because we get water piped in from the city and can buy all of our food at the Vista market. (yum, fresh tortillas)
Lyn on the old school Better Eat Your Wheaties, v8
On yet another of the rapid-fire Observation tours (they are usually only 2 hours long) we went to the East Spur maze where we ran around like crazy people, trying to warm up and climb all the good lines. Lyn and I hopped on Slim Pickins, the classic slab problem of Hueco. There was so much friction compared to the slabs we're used to in the Valley that we both raced up right quick. Better Eat Your Wheaties was a climb that I was scared of for a long time since in had a reputation of being extremely crimpy, so it was fun to be able to do it (with the secret lip beta of Brian from Ohio). Lyn will need to wait for our next trip to get the problem.
Siemay Lee on King Cobra, v6
Another classic problem at the New Meadow is King Cobra. (Couldn't they come up with a more original name?) Siemay had been working it before we arrived, but couldn't figure out a sequence suited for people of more petite stature (also known as dwarfs, gnomes, midgets and little people). Fortunately, Lyn figured out some cool beta and they both sent.
Rich from Ohio on Mandalahaha, v3
In most climbing areas a problem like this would just be a 'throw-away' problem. But this v3 on perfect iron-rock is super fun. Rich (from Ohio as well) managed to do it with a bum leg that he hurt heel hooking (not a good injury to have in Hueco, land of steep climbing). Despite his injury, Rich continued climbing and discovered a hidden talent for crimpy, vertical problems.
Brian Arnold on French Tickler, v9
A cool rock near the Gunks in the East Spur has a bunch of good problems on it, but the plum line is the French Tickler. It heads right up the middle of the wall and the crux move comes right at the end. What you can't see is how absolutely terrifying the landing area looks. Let's just say, you don't want to fall out of control since there is a decent chance of pad surfing.
Raza on Free Willy, v10
You'd think with an incriminating photo like this that I would have sent this try. But no, I still managed to fall off. I had to come back another day to finish this one off. Free Willy climbs a wall with pretty good holds until the last heinous crimp, and then you do a huge dyno off it!
Cool mask on North Mountain
Just another stormy sunset from the Pond Parking Lot
Noah on The Power of Landjager, v11
Finally, we got to take a full day volunteer tour and go to all the places we'd been itching to hit. First stop, Power of Landjager. We hadn't been back since the first day to try this classic problem. It's the low start to Sound of Power, a classic v4 in its own right. Paul was feeling much more acclimated to Hueco climbing at this point and was able to make it to the top of this beautiful line. Thankfully, there were a couple cool climbs for the rest of us in the Moonshine roof area, just up the hill. So while the boys cranked on their problem, Siemay and I did Moonshine roof v4 and Moonshine Right v5 respectively. Those problems have some of the coolest roof holds I've ever had the pleasure to use. Plus, they aren't gimmes for the grade!
Siemay on Something Different, v8
In the deep dark depths of the Dark Heart, lies this fun little problem. It became a favorite among the ladies and we all came within a hair of putting it all together. But again, a ticking tour clock and being just plain tired at the end of the day, conspired to keep anyone but Paul (who flashed it) from sending. Hueco is a great place for folks who get problems done quickly, which works for Paul, but not so much for me.
Raza on Full Service, v10
On our second to last day of climbing, Lyn and I took a commercial tour to hit some of the lingering problems that we wanted to get on. We hired Yuri to take us out, show us around and occasionally give some helpful beta. Full Service was an old nemesis of mine. Years ago I was able to do the crux move and top out Lip Service, but I could never link from the start. It was really nice to be able to come back and slay the dragon. Lyn was also able to hit some of the classics of the area that she'd been hearing about for years. Dragonfly v5, Hobbit in a Blender v5, Osterizer v2, and Hector in a Blender v6 all went down swiftly. Then I surprised myself with a quick send of Crimping Christ on the Cross v10.
Lyn on Ultramega, v8
At the end of our tour with Yuri, we headed over to check out Ultramega. With only 20 minutes left to climb, Lyn hopped on, and while she did all the moves, she didn't have time to send. At least it will give her something to come back for!
Lyn on the classic highball See Spot Run, v6
If there is a climb in Hueco with my name written all over it, it's this one. I'd already heard about See Spot Run from Mike & Rebecca and couldn't wait to get on it after seeing it my first day on North Mountain. Unfortunately, it was an uphill battle to do this problem from the get go. After sorting out all the moves the first day, we were rained out before I was able to put it together. The second and third days of attempting it, left me wanting to tear my hair out in frustration since I kept on messing up the first three-move sequence. By the time I finally got through the opening moves, I was so shot, I couldn't finish the challenging upper crux. I was feeling pretty dejected by my fourth day. But by some minor miracle, aka watching a bunch of strong kids flash my project, I tried really, really hard and made topped out.
A view of the North Mountain meadow
Raza on Martini Right
Ever since seeing Fred on Martini Right in the Masters of Stone 3 video, I've had a secret dream to climb the problem. While it's a little over my head at the moment, the moves are so cool, I had a great time working on it. I almost made it through the crux! Of course, a ridiculously long and pumpy finish is where most people fall. Maybe next year.
Lyn on Melon Patch, v0
It's always good to end the trip on a hight note. That usually means we drag our tired and sore bodies up an easier climb for the last climb on the last day. At the beginning of our last day in Hueco, Lyn managed to pull her right hip flexor and was unable to lift her foot more than 6 inches high. She spent the rest of the day giving good spots and encouragement and getting around by dragging her right leg behind her. We figured that Melon Patch would be the perfect last climb for a gimpy climber given its huge jugs and easy moves. Plus, it's a Hueco classic.
Driving 20+ miles is a lot less fun when you are driving AWAY from a world-class climbing destination. But after six or so fuel stops and an equal number of ice cream sandwiches, we found ourselves back at 1410 Alcatraz.
posted by Raza at 7:45 AM
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